![d2x type e focusing screen grid lines d2x type e focusing screen grid lines](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images2000x2000/Beattie_83503_Intenscreen_Focusing_Screen_91117.jpg)
Leica uses a flip-down mirror and measures the spot value at the bottom
![d2x type e focusing screen grid lines d2x type e focusing screen grid lines](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/NhgAAOSwLPlfFKDW/s-l640.jpg)
Precisely as I could focus manually with a split-image screen. At least IĬould prove to myself that the AF system of this camera works spot-on and as I once tested a screen from an F301 in an F801s, and it worked perfectlyĮxcept spot metering, which became dependent on the lens used. split-image screens are not offered by Nikon as an option for most AFĬameras with interchangeable focusing screens
![d2x type e focusing screen grid lines d2x type e focusing screen grid lines](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61SD%2B-aYPuL._AC_.jpg)
spot metering was not introduced for the FM/FE series Scene, and how the matrix pattern is arranged. Metering may work or may not, depending on how much the center areaīrightness is included into the evaluation of the brightness of a particular Therefore spot metering becomes unreliable. In-viewfinder sensors impossible, because, depending on the lens, theīrightness of the split image area deviates from that of the surrounding I just want to remark that using a split-image screen makes spot metering with This is why its so hard to focus at f/1.2: you get f/2 viewfinder accuracy but f/1.2 DOF. In other words, the standard D1x viewfinder shows you *nothing* about what the lens is doing beyond about f/2. When I press the DOF preview button and turn the aperture ring, here's what happens:ġ) Opening up from f/16 to f/11 to f/8, etc, through f/2.8 the brightness of the viewfinder image increases substantially at every one-stop increase.Ģ) Opening up from f/2.8 to f/2, the brighness increases a little, but not nearly as much as I would expect.ģ) Opening up from f/2 to f/1.4 or f/1.2 produces no visible change in brightness, even in relatively dim conditions when my pupil is dilated somewhat. This can only happen if the viewfinder screen scatters enough light. The only way to accurately see what is going on at f/1.2 is to make sure that light from the outer portions of the ray bundles are actually getting into your eye. If you were to press the DOF button and turn the aperture ring you would see no change in viewfinder brightness, even if you went all the way from f/22 to f/2. Yes, you could still see the aerial image through the viewfinder, but in bright daylight your eye will effectively stop the lens down to about f/30. As an extreme case, consider a focusing screen that is just a plain un-ground piece of glass. However, the scattering qualities of the screen can have a profound effect on how much of the full aperture you can actually see. I know that the viewfinder always uses the lens at full aperture. You can spend $250,000 on a Ferrari, but the tires won't be the best on the market, there's still room to upgrade. Why? Because no matter how good a camera, the focusing screen only is a small percentage of its cost, and there's always a way to spend a few more dollars and get a better one. People with cameras that cost more than your car change their screens. People with 8x10 view cameras change their screens. People with Hasselblads change their screens. People with $8000 Canon 1Ds II's also change their screens. People with $5000 Nikon D2X cameras sometimes change their screens. There are at least five companies making aftermarket focusing screens (IntenScreen, BrightScreen, Maxwell Precision Optics, Haouda, and KE optics). Screens are often not optimal for a given task, or don't meet particular user's preferences. Either field experience, or a sense of the history of photography. Tim - "Maybe I am missing something here, a $5000 camera and you need a third part focusing screen?" You can get the IntenScreen in horizontal or diagonal split image, with or without grid lines. With the 1.5x crop, it dominates the viewfinder. I don't like that screen on a Nikon digital, because the split image on a Beattie is bigger than a Nikon K3 split image to begin with. One of these years, they're going to update their website. I believe D2X takes the same screens as F100, but I can't remember for sure, so give them a call or email before ordering.
![d2x type e focusing screen grid lines d2x type e focusing screen grid lines](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nACc4.jpg)
You can also get a screen from IntenScreen (formerly Beattie, then Fresnel Optics, now Reflexite). But do use the tweezers that come with the K3 screen to remove the old screen from the D2X. 4mm of the top edge of the screen isn't used (because of the D2X 1.5x crop) so if you damage a couple of mm of the focusing screen with regular tweezers (or even needle nose pliers) it won't matter. CD - Two answers for you (well, why not, with 9 posts, no one else managed).įor my own D2X, I took a K3 screen (the split image screen for a FM3a), ground the little tab off, and inserted it using ordinary household tweezers.